A knitted T-shirt with sleeves is one of the most popular types of clothing in the modern wardrobe of men, women, children and teenagers. The universal model takes pride of place not only in a sports and casual ensemble, but is also appropriate in an office suit. It is worn not only for work and leisure, but also to create festive looks.
Value your comfort - in this article you will get answers to the questions:
The history of the T-shirt and its place in the modern wardrobe
A knitted T-shirt with sleeves appeared in the early forties of the last century. Then she served as underwear and was present only in the men's wardrobe. As an independent type of clothing, it began to be used in the United States by Marines during the Second World War, and in peacetime it took a place in the wardrobes of people far from the army in the early fifties. In 1951, the film “A Streetcar Named Desire” was released, in which the main character wore this piece of clothing.
How to choose the right T-shirt so that it can be worn on different occasions and fit into a certain dress code? A variety of styles, fabrics, colors and designs allow you to create ensembles in any style. In the wardrobe of a modern person there is more than one similar item of clothing. We wear some models to work, while others we put on while relaxing. Features of the cut, materials that differ in composition and properties, allow you to choose the right model for all occasions.
How to choose a T-shirt for men and women
The first question that arises when buying something new is how to choose a high-quality T-shirt? Pay attention to the fabric - the surface should be of the same density, the seams should be even, and the stitching should lie evenly. If you see any distortions, this product is not suitable. High-quality knitwear does not stretch out after several seasons of wear and when machine washed. The coloring should be uniform and the paint should be hypoallergenic.
How to choose the right T-shirt for your figure - first of all, the mirror will tell you.
Which fabric to choose for a T-shirt depends on its purpose. If you plan to use it for sports, active recreation, or physical work, choose 100% cotton. Models made from fabric containing synthetic fibers are suitable for an everyday wardrobe in an urban, office style or as dressy clothing.
Features of choosing a women's T-shirt
How to choose a women's T-shirt depends on your body shape. If you have an ideal physique, any model will do. You can choose loose cotton T-shirts in a sporty style and tight-fitting ones made of elastane. If you have problems with extra pounds, it is better to avoid tight models.
How to choose the right T-shirt so as not to feel discomfort? When trying on, pay attention to what you feel comfortable. Raise your arms up - clothes should not creep up, exposing your stomach and back. Spread your arms to the sides and bring them towards your chest - if wrinkles form on your back. Take a larger size.
How to choose a good T-shirt with a design for a girl or woman? When choosing a T-shirt with a print, remember that the design draws attention to itself and tends to distort when stretched. It is better to avoid small details in the drawing if you have a large bust. Better stick to abstraction or large colors. The right model and color will help you create an elegant ensemble that will provide comfort throughout the day.
Features of choosing a men's T-shirt
How to choose a men's T-shirt primarily depends on his type of activity. For those who do physical labor, it is better to opt for loose cotton models. A cut that is too loose and a length below the buttocks is not the best solution. In them you will look like you are wearing clothes from “someone else’s” shoulder. This option is only appropriate for hip-hop ensembles.
How to choose a T-shirt for a man that suits his body type? If you have an athletic build, you can safely wear elastic models that fit tightly to your torso. If you don’t have time for the gym, choose a straight silhouette and soft lines. Those with sloping or narrow shoulders should choose a raglan sleeve. If you have a beer belly, give preference to loose models made from thicker knitwear.
Types of T-shirts: material, style, design
The classic model has no clasp and is worn over the head. The sleeve can be long or short. The styles differ in the degree of fit to the torso and the features of the cut. The cut, first of all, depends on the type of sleeve: shirt with a low shoulder line, set-in and raglan. The styles of T-shirts for women and men are fitted with a set-in sleeve, loose-fitting with a shirt sleeve and sporty - “raglan”. Read more in our old article about.
T-shirt material, colors
Modern models are made from knitted fabric with a density of 130 – 280 g/m?. Modern technologies involve the use of cotton in its pure form or with synthetic additives - polyester and elastane. These fibers improve the aesthetic appearance and extend the life of the knitted product. But 100% cotton has the best hygienic indicators - hygroscopicity and breathability. How to choose fabric for a T-shirt depends on the purpose for which you are purchasing it. Cotton - if you expect physical activity or plan to wear the item in hot weather, mixed and synthetic fabrics are suitable for casual and dressy clothing.
How to choose the color of a T-shirt depends on external data, personal preferences, fashion trends and the season. In summer, give preference to light colors. Firstly, they will reflect the sun's rays, and secondly, such things do not fade.
Fashionable styles
How to choose a T-shirt so that it fits harmoniously into an ensemble? There are several types of design:
- plain,
- combined of 2 or more colors,
- with drawings,
- with inscriptions,
- with full seal.
In the 2018 season, a lot of attention is paid to clothes with prints. Drawings and inscriptions, flowers, natural motifs and stripes are trending. How to choose a T-shirt print? You can look through glossy magazines or start from personal hobbies. A print that matches a hobby or lifestyle will be chosen by music and sports fans, movie buffs, comic book fans, and representatives of all subcultures.
How to choose the color of a T-shirt for the new season? Opt for a pastel palette and rich natural colors. For everyday and office wardrobe - classic black, gray and white.
How to choose a T-shirt with a slogan depends on where you are going to wear it. The main thing is to carefully read what is written on it. If you can’t translate hieroglyphs, don’t take risks so as not to get into a stupid situation.
The T-shirt has long been one of the main elements of the spring-summer season. Versatility, comfort and a wide selection of models, colors and manufacturing brands make the T-shirt a must-have item of clothing in the wardrobe of a modern man.
As per tradition, I will start with history.
One of the first models of men's T-shirts was released in 1913 for serving in the American Navy, and during World War II it was used as underwear. 
However, soon, thanks to its lightness and practicality, the T-shirt became popular not only among the military. For example, the oldest surviving T-shirt was made in 1948 for American presidential candidate Thomas Dewey. The T-shirt became widespread as an everyday item in the 90s.
So, what should you pay attention to when choosing a T-shirt?
Quality
Of course, the main criterion when choosing all things and T-shirts in particular is quality.
Look at what material the T-shirt is made of. Ideally it should be cotton, because... it is the most durable and breathable (in hot weather this is especially important). 
-You should also pay attention to the appearance of the T-shirt, both from the outside and from the inside. If you notice crooked seams, protruding threads, or an asymmetrical cut, then I advise you to refrain from purchasing such frankly low-quality consumer goods, even if they offer you a tempting price. Otherwise, the life of such a thing will be short-lived.
Color
White T-shirts are considered universal because... They suit everyone and go with almost any casual look and element of a man’s wardrobe, be it jeans, a blazer or shorts.
Plain T-shirts in pastel colors (pink, peach, mint) also deserve attention, but when choosing them, you should think about what you can wear them with, using the rules of color combination.
So, for example, a beige T-shirt can be worn with jeans (complementary colors), and a mint t-shirt will look great with dark green shorts (monochrome)
T-shirts with prints, although the most common among men, are much more demanding than their plain “brothers”, because... They are not suitable for everyone and are not always appropriate. The T-shirt itself is a sports and youth item of clothing, and the bright print further enhances these boundaries. Therefore, for men with a full physique or age 40+, I recommend avoiding wearing printed T-shirts altogether and choosing something more suitable. 
Otherwise, everything depends on the specific print; again, you should pay attention to the combination with other wardrobe items. 
Among the current prints are still stripes and typical summer animal and plant colors.
Collar style and type
The cut of the T-shirt can be loose or fitted. The first option is suitable for men with a heavy build, the second for thin men. A T-shirt of optimal length should end at the level of the trousers/jeans belt.
The round neckline of a T-shirt is considered universal and is the most common, making the T-shirt more elegant and stylish, but it is not suitable for everyone.
To summarize, I hope that the information above will help you choose a stylish, comfortable and high-quality T-shirt.
Enjoy the shopping!
It’s not always possible to choose the right T-shirt without trying it on. With the advent of the Internet and online stores, many purchases began to be made, so to speak, at random. It’s good if you are guided by the sizes that are indicated in the product description on the website when purchasing the product. But if you do not have knowledge in this area, then you need to first consult with a knowledgeable person or surf the Internet to find out what sizes will suit your man.
By the way, a good online store will have a separate page where each size for any type of clothing or shoes will be described and explained in detail. If you find such a site, you can mentally give it a “plus sign” - this is definitely one of the points that characterize a high-quality site that cares about its client.
The first and easiest way to determine size
You can determine the size with the greatest probability and guarantee based on the item you already have in your wardrobe. It is clear that there are some T-shirts or shirts that are constantly worn and are the right size. In this case, find a label that will contain all the information about the product. There will be the size, information about the manufacturer, information about the material and how to care for it. If it's unclear what the designation is on one T-shirt, look at another. The easiest way is to find the American designation; with this system it will certainly be clear what size is needed, and already guided by it, you can find out the required size using the Russian or French system.
Why do you have problems determining your clothing size?
The problem appears most likely due to historical circumstances. Previously, there were no uniform standards for determining sizes. Therefore, manufacturers, when starting their business, came up with their own standards, which over time were adjusted to the reference standards. As a result, we now have at least five different standards, which are dictated by countries such as Russia, the USA, Germany, the UK and France. All these sizes, including T-shirts, have their own designations that are easy to find.
The main parameters that you need to focus on
T-shirts for men? First of all, you need to know the man’s height. The dimensions are focused specifically on this parameter, and it is based on this that the sizing scheme is determined. You should also pay attention to the man's weight. If he is large and short, then you should take a T-shirt a couple of sizes larger - depending on how large the representative of the stronger sex is for his height.
American sizing system
This is probably the most common sizing system on our clothing labels. We have long been accustomed to the designations XL, XS, XXL. The basic letters S, L and M are deciphered as follows: small - “small”, middle - “medium” and large - “large” size. X means "extra", that is, "very". So, for example, XS would mean a very small size. For men, this is a T-shirt for heights up to 168 centimeters.
Standards of other countries that can be found on our market
Domestic and European standards are indicated using numbers. There are some differences between them, which is why you may not get exactly what you would like. The best assistant for orientation in all notations (and in this case we are discussing the sizes of men's T-shirts) is a table. It will help to clearly demonstrate the differences between them. Such a table will be given below in the text.
Also, the size of a men's T-shirt is sometimes affected by its further processing. We are talking about washing, after which the product may shrink a little. Natural fabrics that are not treated with special products or in a special way often shrink to approximately no more than five percent of the original size. Other T-shirts that are made from cheap materials, including synthetic or with a high percentage of synthetic content, almost never shrink. Expensive items are most often made from fabric that has already been specially fitted, so they do not lose their shape after washing. But there are exceptions in this product category. Now let's move on to the table, which will indicate the sizes of different countries.
Men's T-shirt sizes. Table
That is, you need to understand that the size of a men’s T-shirt will be influenced not only by height. You also need to remember about shrinkage, as a result of which you should immediately take the product one size larger. It is imperative to take into account the man’s build: one T-shirt may be suitable for a thin man, but for a fat man of the same height it will be unsuitable. And don’t forget that trying on when buying is the easiest and most accurate way to determine the size.
A simple white tee is probably one of the most underrated pieces in a woman's wardrobe. Somehow they always bypass it, preferring to sing its praises and write posts about little black dresses and other pencil skirts, although the Simple White T-shirt is in no way inferior to them in its versatility and irreplaceability.
PLAIN WHITE T-SHIRT
Like many other items in the modern women's wardrobe, the white T-shirt came into it from the men's wardrobe, and this happened in the early 70s, on the wave of general emancipation. Women won the right to wear trousers, jackets and T-shirts - in particular, the simple white T-shirt was popularized by Jane Birkin.
Birkin, this muse of Parisian style, generally loves simple things, and knows how to wear them in such a way that they look like a million: for example, jeans, a T-shirt and a wicker basket - an iconic image that is still actively quoted.
In the modern women's wardrobe, the white T-shirt in its various varieties is very present, and this universal soldier has long been freed from the image of sportswear.
A good T-shirt is appropriate in casual combinations, on the red carpet, as a base for statement jewelry, and in its pure form, as a thing in itself that does not need any other stylistic supports.
Jane Birkin's modern take on daughter Cindy Crawford (also a model who lives and works in New York) wears a simple white T-shirt. How many white T-shirts does a woman need to be completely happy?.. Considering that they don’t last that long (they are washed often, and white is the most expensive color to wear, stains, grayness and stretching of the knitted fabric quickly render the T-shirt unusable), You need to have at least a few at your disposal. Moreover, different T-shirts will serve as a base in different combinations.
CLASSIC FITTED WHITE T-SHIRT
This is a T-shirt made of thin or thick white jersey, length to the top of the hips, fitted along the side seam, with a round or V-neck. A classic T-shirt will be made of cotton and will fit your figure, but loosely, without being tight or stretching in interesting places. A T-shirt that suits your cut is worth a lot - it’s not for nothing that Jennifer Aniston, for example, sews simple white T-shirts to order.
Some manufacturers make T-shirt tops from cotton with elastane; they tightly fit the figure, but this is a separate story that is not suitable for everyone, and we will not talk about it. Let's focus on a classic T-shirt, which in its luxury versions can be made from a mixture of cotton and silk, or linen and silk (the canvas will feel different to the touch, the mixture with silk will be more pleasant to wear, the mixture with linen will hold its shape better).
A classic white crewneck T-shirt (paired with high-top dark blue denim jeans is the spring 2018 trend). 
The recognized “correct” white T-shirts are made by Rag&Bone - these are the ones you are most likely to see on bloggers and editors during fashion shows. These T-shirts are easily recognizable by their knit texture, have a back seam and fit very well. Wash by hand only (however, you probably don’t want to throw a designer T-shirt and socks into the washing machine...). Benetton makes good basic T-shirts, you can also look at what Asos offers (just look at the composition - cotton or a mixture of linen and cotton, without viscose).
A white T-shirt is an indispensable component of a basic wardrobe (I already wrote about how to create your own individual basic wardrobe), and you can create an endless number of looks with it.
BASIC WARDROBE
What the glory of the white T-shirt began with is still relevant today: jeans, sneakers and a cardigan (or a classic trench coat) are the best partners of a white T-shirt. In general, any simple cut items go well with a white T-shirt, so in terms of its versatility, a white T-shirt will outshine even jeans with a white shirt.
To avoid being completely boring, you can do it the Parisian way: add red lipstick, gather your hair in a romantic disheveled bun and go to the Saturday promenade.
Jane Birkin's daughter uses her mother's image very actively: the cut of jeans and shoes is changed, accessories are added, a white T-shirt, trench coat and red lipstick remain. BUSINESS CASUAL
A favorite contrast among residents of fashion capitals: a formal suit and a relaxed T-shirt and sneakers. In fact, you can replace a white shirt or blouse with a T-shirt in any classic combination, adding sneakers or slightly less classic shoes (including a jacket and a pencil skirt) - try it, it turns out interesting.
THE BEST FRIEND OF A COMPLEX PRINT
A white T-shirt is ideal as a partner to things with a colorful print, which is difficult to combine with anything else. The rule is simple: if you are looking at a complex item - trousers, a skirt, a jacket - and can’t figure out what to wear it with, try a white T-shirt.
The classic checkered stripe, of course, also goes well with a white T-shirt - its simplicity helps to make the image cleaner, editing the jumble of colors and lines.
The main look for spring and summer 2018 is a checkered jacket and a white T-shirt, which sets it off perfectly. Statement jewelry will help make a replicated look more individual (without it it will be boring). 
A white T-shirt under a checkered blazer and a handbag is another example of the most popular combination of spring and summer 2018. STATEMENT IMAGES
If you have designer trousers or a complicated skirt that you can't figure out what to wear with it, try wearing it with a white T-shirt. A minimalist top will be an excellent backdrop for a statement bottom; no bright jewelry is needed.
GAME OF DEMOCRACY
Playing democracy is a favorite technique of modern fashionists; expensive and democratic things are constantly mixed in the most unexpected combinations. A white T-shirt, jeans, cardigan and an expensive statement bag, luxury and simplicity are always a great combination.
V-NECK
It makes sense to write about a white T-shirt with a V-neck separately - it goes well with a jacket and coat, since such a neckline works with the collar lines of the latter. These T-shirts are always available in Asos collections, they are made from good cotton, and their neckline is just right.
V-neck does not suit everyone; if you have a triangular or elongated face, then it is better to opt for a T-shirt with a classic round neckline.
The V-neck and leather pilot jacket work great together. 
To make it fun, add accents - jewelry, scarves, interesting bags and shoes. WHITE PRINTED T-SHIRT
Another thing that, at the suggestion of fashion bloggers and editors, has long become a significant alternative to blouses and shirts; such T-shirts go well with neutral structured jackets and jackets.
A T-shirt with a print makes classic combinations (with jeans or denim skirts) a little less boring, and in itself can be a statement accent.
T-shirts - white and with a print - are part of Victoria Beckham's signature look. She wears them with everything, but most often with jeans and classic heels. MACRO TREND SPRING AND SUMMER 2018 – T-SHIRTS WITH LOGO
For those who think that modern fashion has no sense of humor, this ironic trend may seem strange - what is called, on the verge of kitsch (“just like in the Turkish market,” as one of my friends put it, looking at a Gucci T-shirt in the brand’s boutique).
The trend was started two seasons ago by Vetements with its DHL T-shirt, and today this irony has spilled over into mass fashion. Simple T-shirts with huge logos have become the hottest tops this spring and are worn with everything. 
The macro trend for spring 2018 is T-shirts with logos, which you will find in the collection of any brand.
BOYFRIEND T-SHIRT
An oversized white t-shirt with a straight cut and dropped shoulder line is the boyfriend tee you can borrow from your man one morning. This T-shirt gives a different geometry to the silhouette, as the top is voluminous.
They wear this T-shirt tucked in with skinny jeans and skirts, with the sleeves rolled up a little, or untucked, tied in a knot at the hips.
Victoria Beckham at the New York airport for the AF2018 fashion show - boyfriend t-shirt, basic trousers, watch, and that's about it. 
And for grunge looks, the boyfriend t-shirt is treated with nail scissors, cutting holes around the neck to give it a worn-in look:
For this silhouette, you can take either a regular men’s T-shirt (just take a small size so that your neck doesn’t hang out at the neck) or a women’s boyfriend’s t-shirt cut. The latter are often sewn from thin cotton jersey; they fit perfectly to the figure, draping volumes (if there is something to drape).
The main rule when choosing a straight-cut (men's) voluminous T-shirt is to make sure there is a seam on the back. This seam strengthens the item, preventing it from stretching and losing its shape, which is very important for a T-shirt made of thin knitwear (without this seam, your T-shirt will warp after the first wash).
The basic look for spring and summer 2018 is a checkered blazer, cropped mom jeans, a tote bag and a logo T-shirt. Messy hair included. The main problem area for white T-shirts is the armpits, where hard-to-remove yellow stains remain. If we are talking about an inexpensive T-shirt, then God bless it, it is easy to replace it with a new one of the same kind, but losing designer items in this way is quite sad.
In the fashion crowd, different methods are passed on from mouth to mouth - someone, before putting on an item, sprays the armpit area with hairspray and irons it with an iron so that a protective flexible film forms on the fabric, someone glues disposable pads inside the sleeve that absorb sweat and protect both the fabric and you from unaesthetic stains (very important, by the way, when you sweat for hours in the hall at some adjacent show).
But really, all you need to do is just wash the area with soap before putting the T-shirt in the machine (if you machine wash it). Never try to remove sweat stains with chlorine bleach, it reacts with protein (sweat is protein contamination), the stain becomes even yellower and after that nothing can be done about it at all. Simple laundry (or Marseilles) soap dissolves protein and removes dirt from fabric without any problems.
T-shirts should not be wrung out - when twisted while wet, knitted fabric immediately stretches out and the T-shirt loses its geometry (begins to twist). So after you have washed the item by hand or in a machine on a delicate program (without spinning), just squeeze the T-shirt in your hand so that the water drains, then lay it on a towel, cover it with another one on top, and roll it into a tube - the towels will take up the water from a T-shirt, and you just need to leave it to dry on any flat surface.
Long live simplicity and functionality, viva to a simple white T-shirt!
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Did you like this post and would like to learn more about how to create interesting looks using simple wardrobe items? You might be interested in my book, “The Anatomy of a Parisian Wardrobe.”
Let me start with the fact that for a long time I was an adherent of the idea “no knitted T-shirts and T-shirts after 35 years and 50 kg.” Indeed, many knitwear products, which women, due to their relative cheapness and ease of care, prefer to wear under jackets or cardigans instead of shirts or blouses, openly emphasize figure flaws. However, this does not mean at all that only very young and slender young ladies can afford to wear T-shirts and tank tops, as many people write about this. It all depends on the composition of the material, the style of the product and the figure of a particular woman.
Advantages and disadvantages of knitted T-shirts and T-shirts.
Knitwear is a type of fabric, the fabric of which is formed by interlacing loops.
Knitwear is somewhat similar to a grandmother who selflessly loves her grandchildren. No matter what the child does, everything is a joy for the grandmother! Likewise, knitted T-shirts and blouses will always stretch to the desired size, lovingly emphasizing each new fold, unlike capricious shirts made of rigid materials, which, when weight changes, cease to sit properly, or even fasten at all. Knitwear does not hinder movement, is easy to care for and is relatively inexpensive, which allows you to create the illusion of a large number of things using small means.
However, all the advantages of knitted T-shirts and T-shirts at a certain angle turn into disadvantages! Low-quality knitwear looks rustic, and an abundance of knitted items in one look, for example, a T-shirt, skirt and cardigan, is completely old-fashioned.
Plastic, “flaccid” knitwear too literally outlines the figure, rather than shaping its silhouette, so if there is nothing special to emphasize, you should abandon tight-fitting knitted items. In addition, many women, when buying T-shirts and T-shirts, do not bother themselves with trying them on, choosing an item of the color or pattern they like in “their” size according to the markings on the label, but knitted fabric can be very different!
In my wardrobe, I found several options for the composition and weaving of the knitted fabric of T-shirts and T-shirts, which fit very differently on the figure. Almost all of them were transferred to home capsules for a number of reasons, the main one being that the jerseys and T-shirts did not look good in motion. I chose the worst rear view angles to show how different knitwear can behave on the same figure.
For the photo, I deliberately slouched and leaned a little to the left.
Another small nuance: even a very high-quality T-shirt or tank top can unfavorably flatter your figure if inappropriate underwear is worn underneath it. Here are the traditional rules:
- the bra must be the right size
- the straps and belt of the bra should not cut into the skin, but form smooth, even lines of the shoulders, sides and back
All these conditions were met in my experiment.
Knitwear option No. 1. Composition: cotton 95%, elastane 5%. Models fit tightly to the figure.
Very soft to the touch, plastic, well-stretchable fabric (the width can be stretched more than 2 times!), of different thicknesses. I found three types of weaving fabric with this composition, but they fit about the same on the figure, poorly. This also includes the composition: viscose/polyurethane is generally “fitting” like a thin second skin, so if you are overweight, you should absolutely not buy such things.
Fabric from the inside out to better see the weaving of the loops
Many knitted products contain synthetic fibers, which increase the elastic properties of the fabric. In my opinion, if you are overweight, such materials should be avoided.
Knitwear option No. 2. Composition: cotton 96%, polyurethane 4%. The model fits tightly to the figure.
The fabric feels denser and stiffer to the touch than the first samples and does not stretch as easily, but still quite strongly (about half the width of the T-shirt). Already shapes the silhouette, and not just fits it.
And option No. 3, composition: 100% cotton. The size of the model does not fit the figure tightly; there is an air gap between the skin and the fabric.
Dense and rigid fabric, stretches, but very slightly (about a third of the width of the T-shirt). Perfectly masks uneven silhouettes in motion.
If you bend or lean over, the fabric hangs over the waistband of the skirt, not the body
So, if you have an imperfect figure, when choosing a T-shirt:
- pay attention to the composition of the fabric: the presence of synthetic fibers not only adds elasticity to the fabric, but also contributes to excessive tightness, which will 100% emphasize the unevenness of the figure, and somewhere “complete” what is not there!
- choose T-shirts with a semi-fitted silhouette so that there is a layer of air between the skin and the fabric
- natural fabrics (without the addition of synthetic fibers) stretch worse, but hold their shape better
- pay attention to the density of the fabric; the denser the material, the greater the chance of hiding rather than emphasizing figure flaws
- don’t worry that thick fabric will be less breathable: a thick T-shirt made from natural fibers holds its shape better and, at the same time, provides comfort
- be sure to try on T-shirts and tank tops. Usually in fitting rooms women try to take the most favorable pose for their figure: they straighten their backs, raise their heads, etc., but in real life we slouch, turn awkwardly, and bend our bodies. It is necessary to evaluate the T-shirt in all poses and make sure that the figure looks good from any angle
- a high-quality T-shirt is protected from stretching by a special thick tape
- The price of a T-shirt or T-shirt does not determine quality, but rarely really good things are very cheap
Have a good day!
